• Great Britain Grading for British  Pennies (1895-1970):
        Grading, as always, depends on wear on the high points of a design. On the Brittania side wear is most often seen and compared  in the following places:
        The shield lines and drapery.
        The fingers on the trident.
        The helmet about the ear.
        Along the arms, waist, and leg.        > Wybrit's British Coin Grading Tips <
  • France Grading for French  5 & 10 centimes coins (1853-1864):

    Obverse:                                                                      Reverse:
      G: Ear, nose, beard smooth.                                     G: Eagle's head, breast, legs, arrows smooth.
    VG: Nose, ear outlined.                                             VG: Eagle eye and arrow band defined.
       F: Moustache outlined, some hairlines.                  F: Some eagle neck and chest detail, some diagonals on arrows.
     VF: Full ear, most hairlines show                             VF: Much detail and full arrows.
                                                                                             

  • Netherlands Grading for Dutch  1 cent coins (1877-1907):

    Obverse:                                                                        Reverse:
    VG: Shields, crown, lions paws smooth.                              Differing degrees of leaf and berry details.
       F: Shields and paws smooth; crown much worn;
            lion mane has some edge detail.
     VF: More than half of shields show dots; crown, paws,
          mane show some detail.

    SCANS: (click below)




  • Switzerland Grading for Swiss  1/2 & 1 Franc coins (1875+):
SCANS: (click below)


    United States of America U.S. COINS MS GRADING SCALE
          (I can not recommend using this system):
    AG-3 ------- About Good
    GOOD-4 ----- Good
    GOOD-6 ----- Choice Good
    VG-8 ------- Very Good
    VG-10 ------ Choice Very Good
    FINE-12 ---- Fine
    FINE-15 ---- Choice Fine
    VF-20 ------ Very Fine
    VF-30 ------ Choice Very Fine
    XF-40 ------ Extremely Fine
    XF-45 ------ Choice Extremely Fine
    AU-50 ------ About Uncirculated
    AU-55 ------ Choice About Uncirculated
    AU-58 ------ Very Choice About Uncirculated
    MS-60 ------ Uncirculated
    MS-63 ------ Choice Uncirculated
    MS-64 ------ Select Uncirculated
    MS-65 ------ Gem Uncirculated
    MS-67 ------ Superb Uncirculated
    PR-60 ------ Proof
    PR-63 ------ Choice Proof
    PR-64 ------ Select Proof
    PR-65 ------ Gem Proof
    PR-67 ------ Superb Proof

                   OR

U.S. Coins Grading Scale:
PO-1: Identifiable date and type.
FR-2: Mostly worn, though some details are visible.
AG-3: Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn.
G-4: Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full.
G-6: Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full.
VG-8:  Design worn with slight detail.
VG-10: Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer.
F-12: Some deeply recessed areas with details, all lettering sharp.
F-15: Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp.
VF-20: Some definition of detail, all lettering full and sharp.
VF-25: Slightly more definition in the detail and lettering.
VF-30: Almost complete detail with flat areas.
XF-35: Detail is complete but worn with high points flat.
XF-40: Detail is complete with most high point slightly flat.
XF-45: Detail is complete with some high points flat.
AU-50: Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points.
AU-53: Full detail with friction over ½ or more of surface, very slight flatness on high points.
AU-55: Full detail with friction on less than ½ surface, mainly on high points. 
AU-58: Full detail with only slight friction on the high points.
MS/PR-60: No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS/PR-61: No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines strike may not be full.
MS/PR-62: No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS/PR-63: Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS/PR-64: Few marks/hairlines or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or above.
MS/PR-65: Minor marks/hairlines thought none in focal areas, above average strike.
MS/PR-66: Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike.
MS/PR-67:  Virtually as struck with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed.
MS/PR-68: Virtually as strike with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed.
MS/PR-69: Virtually as strike with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary. 
MS/PR-70: As struck, with full strike.
STORING COINS
For storing any coin, keeping it in a dry, low humidity environment is the main rule to
follow. You're looking for long term storage as in 50+ years. Next, you would ideally
want to store it in an inert container, with little or no physical contact with the holder
or contact with vapors released by decomposition of certain paper or plastics.
Finding a genuinely safe product may be difficult to prove at time of purchase.
Guaranteed products may be costly or even ineffective. I can't recommend any in
particular but something to avoid would be PVC (polyvinyl chloride) a
softener (plasticizer) used in plastic flips to keep them flexible. Some companies
tout "no PVC" products but whether they're true claims only time will tell. Oddly
enough, the seemingly cheap brittle flips may be the best plastic storage but
supposedly the stiffer the better. The cardboard 2x2's may, or may not, contain PVC
in the window and the paper may release sulfuric gases, as any paper may, when it
decomposes. Also, the staples, may be prone to rust over time. Paper envelopes
and plastic sleeves may have similar problems. In other words, there is no long term
100% safe affordable method to store them besides an airtight or airless
environment with no physical contact with the holder. Maybe one day we can put
them into orbit! Personally, I use 2x2's and the plastic sleeves inside paper envelopes in a dry environment. My coins are pretty inexpensive though.

CLEANING COINS:

DON'T DO IT! Cleaning reduces the value of a coin by 50% or more.
Coins can decay due to corrosion from chemical reactions between the metal and  moisture in the air (humidity).
Zinc is especially bad for this with its 'white rust'.
Keeping it in a pH environment of 8 or lower may inhibit it.
Ancient coins can also exhibit 'bronze disease': Link, Link.
Keep coins in a dry, non-reactive environment.

OTHER COLLECTIBLES' GRADING STANDARDS:

PAPER MONEY
Summary:
CU:  CRISP UNCIRCULATED - CLEAN AND CRISP
AU:  CU EXCEPT FOR BARELY NOTICEABLE FOLD
XF:  CRISP OR NEARLY SO, NOTICEABLE FOLD
VF:  MORE THAN 1 FOLD, POSSIBLY SMUDGED
F:    SMUDGES, MULTIPLE FOLDS
VG:  EDGE TEARS OR FRAYING, DIRT, HEAVY CREASES
GOOD:  WORSE THAN ABOVE, CORNER MISSING
FAIR:   LIMP, TEARS, HOLES, FADED
POOR:  A RAG

Grading Paper Money (Details):
When grading paper money it is essential to first determine if the note
may be safely removed from its holder without causing any damage due to brittleness, unseen tears, glue remnants etc.
Then, carefully remove the note and holding it lightly, consider the general appearance, amount of wear, the hue and intensity of the color of both the face and back.
Determine a preliminary grade. If the note is Fine or better it should
be held obliquely in line with a good light source. Move around at
various angles, such that the light will reflect off the note highlighting
any ripples, counting creases, heavy creases, pressed out creases, tears,
pinholes, cancellations, repairs or fading. Mastery of this technique is
mandatory in successfully grading paper money.
When  these aspects have been carefully considered, decide if these are "normal" for the preliminary grade which was determined. If not, then the grade may have to be reduced depending on the number and severity of the defects, or the defects will have to be listed in addition to the overall grade, followed by any unusual defect, than to downgrade the note. Careful inspection to determine the correct grade will lead to greater trust and confidence between buyers and sellers of notes.

Paper Money Grades:
UNCIRCULATED - UNC: A perfect note. Crisp and clean as
issued and without any folds, creases, blemishes or
discoloration. Colors have original hue and brightness.
Some issues may have ripples [as made]. Mention must be
made if the design is not perfectly centered with usual
width of margins.

ABOUT UNCIRCULATED - AU: Similar to Uncirculated but
with the allowance of a light fold [usually a vertical center
fold] or two or three very light counting folds, but not
both. Counting creases resulting in broken paper fibers, or
any other creases, reduce the grade depending on their
number and severity. The practice of using "almost" and
"about" to designate a slightly lower or a plus in the case of
lower grades to designate in-between grades is common,
e.g. "almost AU" or "EF plus". Notes not perfectly centered
with width of margins must be so described.

EXTREMELY FINE - EF: Similar to Almost Uncirculated but
the center fold, vertical or horizontal, may be a crease, i.e.
paper fibers are broken, or there may be up to three heavy
counting folds [not creases] or two light creases, but no
combination of the above. The centering and margins if not
perfect must be noted.

 VERY FINE - VF: A fairly crisp and clean note. It may have
several major and minor creases and folds, and some
evidence of wear especially along the edges or at the
corners. There may be some slight decrease in hue and
intensity of the colors. The design in the creases should
not be worn off.

 FINE - F: A note with considerable evidence of circulation.
Numerous creases and folds, but a small degree of firmness
remaining. Usually fairy soiled and the hue and intensity of
the color are slightly reduced. There may be a slight
amount of the design worn off along the major creases.
Creases should not be worn off.

VERY GOOD - VG: A heavily circulated note but with all the
major design still visible. Usually limp with no crispness or
firmness, quite soiled, hue and intensity of the color will
be faded or altered. A moderate amount of the design may
be worn off along the major creases or in the "counting
creases" areas. Numerous other defects may apply [see list
below]

GOOD - G: Soft and very limp, often with tears and small
pieces missing. Usually some of the major design is worn
off. Note may be quite dark in appearance. Manuscript
signatures, dates and sheet numbers may be worn off or
entirely faded out. Often has numerous tears and other
defects.

FAIR - Fr: Similar to GOOD, but larger pieces missing.
Manuscript signatures, dates and sheet numbers may be
worn off or entirely faded out. Often has numerous tears
and other defects.

POOR - Pr: As a fair note, but with a major portion of the
note torn off or the design obliterated. Often numerous
tape repairs. Generally collectable only because of rarity.

In addition, to accurately grade a note it is necessary to
consider any additional impairments. These should include:

1. Minor counting creases or edge defects, especially for EF and AU grades.
2. Tears, pinholes or signature perforations.
3. Stains, smudges, crayon marks or writing.
4. Missing corners, cut and punch cancellations or edge defects.
5. Rubber stamp impressions.
6. Any repairs, such as with sticky tape, scotch tape, stamp hinge, etc.
7. Chemical damage, paste or glue from attachment to a page.
8. Poorly centered or badly trimmed edges.

A note with portions missing should be graded as if it were
a whole note, then the amount missing should be fully described.


STAMPS:

1) All faults are described.              14) *-Unused stamp.
2) AVE.-design cut by perfs.           15) O-Used stamp.
3) FINE-perfs clear design.            16) UR-Upper Right.
4) F/VF-perfs clear of design          17) LR-Lower Right.
    & somwhat nicely centered.       18) UL-Upper Left.
5) VF- a well centered stamp.         19) LL-Lower Left.
6) XF-perfectly centered stamp.     20) SON-socked on the
7) SUPERB-XF plus large margins.            nose cancel.
8) NH-Never Hinged.                     21) PO-Post Office.
9) VLH-Very Lightly Hinged.        22) rt./lt.-Right/Left
10) LH-Lightly Hinged.                  23) Pl.# -Plate #.
11) H-Hinged.                                 24) Blk.-Block.
12) HR-Hinged Remnant.              25) add.-Addressed.
13) HH-Heavy Hinged.                  26) OG-Original Gum.

COMICS:

1) MINT - Near perfect  in every way, subtle production defect allowed.
2) NM - Nearly perfect with some minor  imperfections.
3) EX - Clean comic, some surface wear begining to show, slight corner wear
4) FINE - Above average copy, more surface wear & defects.
5) VG - Average used comic book.
6) GOOD - Has all pages, small pcs. of comic missing.

CARDS:

1) MINT - A card w/no flaws or wear, well centered, original gloss, both edges & original color borders.
2) NM/MINT - A card w/1 very minor flaw(1 corner w/slight wear, color or focus imperfection.)
3) NM - A card w/1 minor flaw(1 fuzzy corner, 2 to 4 corners w/slight wear, slightly rough edges, etc.)
4) EX/NM - A card w/2 or 3 fuzzy but not rounded corners, slightly rough edges, color of focus problems.
5) EX - A card w/4 fuzzy but not rounded corners, some gloss loss, rough edges, color or focus problems.
6) VG/EX - A card w/slightly rounded corners, edge notching, loss of gloss, may have 1 minor crease.
7) VG - A card w/slightly rounded corners, edge notching, loss of gloss, may have a few minor creases.
8) GOOD - Well worn, mishandled or abused, rounded corners, scuffed, heavy creases, discolored.

-MAIL:tbirde@psknet.com

Member #29

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That's a French Cameroon 1943 1 Franc coin in the background.